CAMBODIA

Cambodia is a country in Southeast Asia nestled between Thailand, Laos, and Viet Nam. It has a population of approximately 14,000,000 people and is primarily Bhuddist.

Cambodia is aptly named the “Kingdom of Wonder.” Visitors will be struck by the unique lifestyle of the common people who always seem to smile despite the hardships of their recent tragic History and struggles of poverty and tribulations.

The country is changing rapidly. Development is moving ahead at a breakneck pace since the Kingdom was declared open to foreign investment in 2007. This has brought both positive and negative results to a 3rd world country that has been re-discovered by the International community.

Country Name: The Kingdom of Cambodia
Location: 11° 33′ N, 104° 55′ E (Phnom Penh); Southeast Asia, bordered by Vietnam, Thailand and Laos and the South China Sea
Capital: Phnom Penh

Government: Constitutional Monarchy
Other Major Cities: Siem Reap (gateway to Angkor), Sihanoukville (commercial port and beaches), Battambang, Kampong Cham.
Language: Khmer
Religion: Thervada Buddhism (97%), Islam, Christianity, Animism 

Ethnic Groups: Khmer (~95%), ethnic-Chinese, ethnic-Vietnamese, Cham, several ethnic minority groups, most located in the northeastern section of the country (groups include: Kuy, Mnong, Stieng, Brao, Tampuan, Pear, Jarai, Radee, Brao, Krung and Kavet.)
Climate: Tropical

Terrain: Mostly low, flat plains; mountains in southwest and north
Population: 14.1 million (2010 estimate)  
Land Area: 181,035 km2
Major Geographic Features: Tonle Sap Lake, Mekong River, Tonle Sap River, Bassac River, Mt. Oral
Tourist Attractions: Angkor Wat, Bayon, Temples of Angkor, National Museum, Royal Palace, Killing Fields, Beaches, Eco-tourism
International Airports: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap
Money: Riel (US$1=~4100riel)
Voltage: 220v/50Hz
Time: GMT +7 hours
Country Calling Code: 855

Business Hours: 7:30-11:00 / 2:00-5:00
Closed Saturday afternoon and Sunday

International Gate Ways:
Phnom Penh International Airport
Siem Reap International Airport
Sihanoukville Port
International Border Checkpoints (See Overland Border Checkpoints)
Bavet (Svay Rieng Province)
Kaam Samnor-Koh Rokar (Kandal-Prey Veng)
Cham Yeam (Koh Kong Province)
Poipet (Banteay Meanchhey Province)
O’Smach (Oddar Meanchhey Province)
Phnom Den (Takeo Province)
Dong Krolor (Stung Treng Province)

Visas (See Visas for much more)
Visas can be obtained at Royal Embassies and Consulates of Cambodia
Visa on arrival: valid for 30 days, is issued at Phnom Penh International Airport, Siem Reap International Airport and most international border crossing.
Visa fee: Business visa: USD25, Tourist visa: USD20.

Airport Tax:
International Airport:
– Foreigner: USD25
– Cambodian: USD18
Domestic:
– Foreigner: 6USD
– Cambodian: 5USD

Transport From the Airport
Phnom Penh International Airport: On arrival, taxis and motorcycle taxis (motodups) can be hired just outside the arrival lobby. There are no meter taxis. Taxis cost $7.00 for the 30-50 minute ride into the city center. Cheaper, slower and less comfortable, motorcycle taxis can be hired for $2 into town. A taxi to the airport from town costs $5 – $7. Shared taxi for $2/person.

Siem Reap Airport: The airport sits 6km from town. Outside the terminal is a ticket booth for registered taxis into town. Independent taxis and motorcycles wait just outside the airport. The price is the same for both: motorcycles are $1 and cars are $5 into town. Most hotels offer free transportation from the airport but you must notify them in advance of your arrival. 

City Airport Codes:

Phnom Penh	PNH
Siem Reap	REP
Battambang	BBM
Mondulkiri	MWV
Ratanakiri	RBE
Stung Treng	TNX
Sihanoukville	KOS
Koh Kong	KKZ
Poipet	HPP

 

 

EXPAT CHRONICLES (Cambodia Reflections)

Why do I stay in Cambodia? I ask myself this question nearly everyday. Many reasons spring to mind. As a resident of 5 years, I’ve seen many changes and amazing growth since I first made the big move from America to coastal Cambodia .
After some 35 odd years of political instability and social chaos since the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, Cambodia has gradually lifted itself up from obscurity to become a world tourist destination. Angkor Wat, the glorious temples that adorn the landscape, near the Tonle Sap Lake, has become a world attraction. Dating back to the Khmer Empire of the 10th Century, and abandoned around 1431, the architectural wonder of the King Jayavarma V11 period was mostly hidden to the outside Western world by the vast overgrowth of jungle forests for centuries. Various European missionaries made explorations to the site during the 1600 & 1700’s, but credit is most often given to Henry Mahout, a French Botanist, for having “re-discovered” Angkor Wat in 1860, though many, including Khmer locals, would dispute that claim. Nonetheless, Mahout had a certain flair for writing and his skillfully drawn illustrations of the ancient temples captured the attention of millions when the book was first published 150 years ago.
My first trip to Angkor Wat was in 2002. Siem Reap, the adjacent town, was a small dusty village with a hand full of bars, restaurants, and 2 dozen guest houses. Truthfully, for me, it was just a hot boring place, and I was ready to leave after 3 days, having had my fill of the Temples. It just so happened to be the closest town to Angkor Wat, but was, in and of itself, rather nondescript.
However, upon my return, in February, 2011, I was stunned to find hundreds of new guest houses, paved streets, 3, 4, and 5 star hotels, a busy airport, and a continuous flow of buses, loaded with tourists, zig-zagging through the town. A thriving expat community now exists. Young budget travelers have claimed Pub Street as a designated meeting spot I’ve lived here, for 1 year now, after residing 3 ½ years in the coastal town of Sihanoukville. But that’s a whole other story which can be addressed some other time.

At any rate, for the sake of clarity, let us return to the original question: “Why do I stay in Cambodia?
Now that I’ve weighed my options I’ve concluded that it’s the right place to be, for me, (right now, anyway.) Climate is a big attraction, of course. Having grown up on the Northeast region of America, I am a veteran of frigid winters, icy snow, and cold feet. For some reason, the memory of cold feet always lingers. To live in a place where I can don a T-shirt year-round and wear comfortable airy sandals and never experience toe numbing coldness is a blessing in itself. But there are many advantages to living in Southeast Asia. And, of course, some disadvantages. No place is perfect, to be sure.

One very obvious positive advantage is the ease of obtaining a visa. While surrounding countries, such as Thailand, have, in recent years, tightened their restrictions on visas and visa extensions for long term foreign residents, the process is relatively easy in Cambodia. For example, I brought my passport to a local travel agent recently, to apply for a 6 month extension on my visa. I was told there had been a slight increase in the fee since the start of the New Year. Still, it only amounted to $160 and they sent it off to the American Embassy, in Phnom Pehn, to be stamped, and I had it back within 3 days. No need to worry about that for the next 6 months. Additionally, if one obtains a 6 month or 1 year visa extension it is deemed multiple entry, which means you can travel out of the country and re-enter for free, within that 6 to 12 month time period, of course. I’ve talked with many long term expat residents of neighboring Thailand, who have been frustrated by the policies of that country’s visa laws and the rules seem to change frequently. Last I heard, you were only allowed 2 short term extensions within a 1 year period and, after that, you must leave the country for 3 months or something along those lines. This can be difficult for people with families and businesses in Thailand, when they are forced to drop everything and leave the country for long periods of time.
And this brings up another issue: Running a business in Cambodia. Most foreigners who start a business in Thailand are involved with the usual commercial enterprises: Bars, restaurants, and guest houses/hotels. This can involve numerous applications, permits, fees, taxes; a continuous quagmire of endless red tape.

Besides that, all foreign business owners are prohibited from doing any actual hands-on work in their own establishment. This is a requirement I find absurd and unacceptable. In other words, if you own a bar in Thailand, and you are not Thai, you are not allowed to go behind the bar and serve your own customers. Nor are you permitted to fix a leaky faucet, or hammer a nail into a floor board. You must hire Thais, only, to do this work. This is a law that is strictly enforced, with harsh penalties for any who circumvent.

Such restrictions could be extremely frustrating for anyone who is use to being a handyman at home, the average American, for example, who likes to do minor repairs and odd jobs like rough carpentry and house painting, etc.; You know, the average Joe who grew up tinkering in the family workshop and watched his Dad fix this and that, and learned, over time, how to be a Jack of all trades. He’s forced to sit in a corner and twiddle his thumbs, while the staff tries to figure out what he means in pigeon English to do this or that or have his Thai Girlfriend try to interpret these instructions and hope she gets it right, and explains what needs to be done. All of this seems very counter-productive, and it’s no wonder why many of these small businesses go under. Nevertheless, there seems to be no end to the long parade of Westerners who go to Thailand and start up bars, only to fold shortly after, and then leave the Country out of frustration and depleted funds, till the whole process is repeated again and again, with different foreigners. Can someone spell the word SCAM!
At least, in Cambodia, one has some elbow room when it comes to setting up shop; on the surface anyway. But, by no means, does that make it easy. In Cambodia you are faced with challenges that are unique to that country. Just ask me and a hundred other guys who tried.

My own personal entrepreneurial attempt was a coffee shop venture in 2008 and man, was it a wild ride! That period lasted 18 months before I finally became fed up enough to walk away, though, I must say, my situation was extraordinary, as my timing couldn’t have been worse. Who could have known the world financial market was about to take such a dramatic nose-dive. But that was only one of a series of events that would work against my success. There was the SARS scare and impending bird and swine pandemics. There was  an earthquake in China, major cyclone disaster in Burma, as well as continuous fighting on the border between Thailand and Cambodia, concerning the rights to a sacred temple named Preah Vehear. And there were riots erupting all throughout Thailand, between Red shirts (Thaksin supporters) and Yellow shirts, which led to the protesters’ takeover of the Bangkok airport on Christmas, 2009, leaving many foreign travelers stranded for weeks when all flights were cancelled. All these factors had a negative impact on travel at that time, for one reason or another, and tourism to South East Asia made a dramatic decline.

At least that was true in Sihanoukville, the coastal town where I ran my coffee shop. Yet, it sometimes happens, unfavorable circumstances can be a blessing in disguise, and this was certainly the case for me.

As business dropped in my café, I was forced to pursue my musical endeavors full time, to make ends meet, and being a musical entertainer has been my main occupation in Cambodia ever since, with intermittent periods spent teaching English at a local university.
If someone were to ask me what I thought was the common thread which brought the fabric of Cambodian society together, I would answer in one word: “Weddings”. In my opinion, this is the glue which binds the social order of this culture.

On any given day one will come across at least one street, in any town, blocked to traffic by a makeshift tent with folding chairs and well dressed Cambodians arriving for a wedding reception. The music at these events is usually a mix of pre-recorded exotic sounds incorporating traditional instruments, with percussion and sometimes a full band. The P.A. system is set to ridiculously loud decibel levels and the whole event can get underway as early as 6:A.M. and will continue all throughout the day and evening, with party-goers dancing and singing traditional songs, and speakers addressing the crowd in between musical festivities. According to the social status of the newly-weds, there is a tradition of a gift giving envelop offered by each of the guests, usually to the bride, and there is also a dowry , which also has certain implications of status. The Cambodians have their own way of doing things. If they have any set protocol for this, then I defy any foreigner who claims to be knowledgeable about the correct procedure. As far as I can see, this is priveledged information, and we are not included within the inner circle. Any Foreigner who becomes engaged to a Cambodian lady will be told what he’ll be told, depending on who does the telling. Whether he accepts the agreement or not is a matter of choice or omission and, in my own cynical view, clearly a business arrangement. Enough said on this subject.
There does, however, seem to be benefits to having a Cambodian partner here, and one can navigate his way through the maze of contradictions and misconceptions in everyday transactions more easily with a local spokesperson or translator and if there is an intimate connection, she may be eligible for marriage. I do know a few men who have gone that route. One Austrailian I know tied the knot with his sweetheart, purchased a big house in town, and then went out of town on business for a few days. When he returned he found a crowded house with all her relatives. Papa was there in his own portable bed as well as Mama. There were sisters and brothers and babies. Sleeping in a hammock was a 1st, 2nd, or 3rd cousin, not sure which. But this was the new un-private life thrust upon this unwitting gentleman, and similar situations occur more often then one might think. Whether or not you can accept this arrangement depends on how much extra baggage you can afford or are willing to carry, and how much you value your own privacy. I happen to be a fanatic about my own personal privacy, so this kind of arrangement wouldn’t suit me, but that’s just me.
What I love about Cambodia: For me it’s the simple things. The smiles are warm and genuine. Not a day goes by that I am not struck with admiration for these people who have learned how to appreciate the small pleasures of everyday living, despite all the hardships they have endured. It’s the poor people I am talking about. Life is harsh for many Cambodians. Traveling to the outer provinces and small villages, one can observe the everyday struggles of bare survival and crippling poverty. The average fisherman on the Tonle Sap Lake earns as little as $25 a month to feed his entire family. Many parts of Cambodia are still without adequate electric power and safe water. Many cannot afford to send their children to school and illiteracy is rife. Medical care is also inadequate in remote areas and villagers rely on folk remedies and superstitious beliefs concerning the diagnosis of illnesses.

Several years ago the country was overwhelmed with a Dengue Fever epidemic and 2012 sees another huge outbreak. This is a fierce disease caused by a parasitic daytime mosquito. They call it the bone-break disease because one can go into a fever and the entire body aches in the joints. Children are particularly vulnerable and hundreds lost their lives because they were misdiagnosed and given improper cures by the local folk doctor. Improper remedies threw them into a toxic shock, which might have been avoided by a simple injection. This was a tragic event and, hopefully it will be avoided in the future with proper education and treatment.
The Cambodians are use to such hardships, and seem to have an attitude of acceptance with what Life gives them. Yet, every day I am taken aback by the spontaneous joy I see in them. They struggle, but they always seem to find time for relaxation and enjoyment. Sometimes, when I’m cruising down the road on my motor bike, I will notice another Honda scooter carrying perhaps 4 or 5 people. Papa is driving. Mama holds her infant baby and a toddler crouches in front of her, with another small brother and sister hanging on the back. As they pass by me, the young ones in the back turn to look at me, perhaps 2 or 3 years old. I will be greeted with shining smiles and waving hands as they shout enthusiastically: “Hello, Hello!!” They are so proud to have an opportunity to practice their English with a Westerner. The Mother usually smiles with warm approval. Whenever this happens I am instantly humbled. My heart opens and I again remember why I stay here in Cambodia. It’s the simple things. It’s an experience of innocence that was lost to me in America long ago.

Here I find people without bitterness, without shame and suspicion. They are so curious about my presence and my odd appearance, beak nose and pale skin. They delight in checking me out and I feel welcome. Perhaps they think I am a wealthy Westerner, which many of them believe is true of all of us. But I try to put myself on their level and I sometimes attempt to communicate with my limited Khmer vocabulary. It’s a difficult language to pronounce. I didn’t learn languages growing up, but I have learned some Khmer numbers and phrases and many seem to get a kick out of hearing a novice stumble over common words, but they seem to appreciate my attempt.
Another important factor is cost of living. I’m on a budget. Cambodia is a bargain in many ways. Although options abound for extravagant expenditures, everyday purchases can be incredibly cheap. For example, I rarely pay more then 2 or 3 dollars for a meal. I have my own personal list of eateries that I have staked out over time which offer the dishes I enjoy at the prices I can easily afford. There are innumerable choices and these include Western as well as the average Khmer selections. And where else can you buy a draft beer for 50 cents? You heard it right! What’s the cost of a draft in the States these days? Four dollars for a Budweiser is probably the lowest you will find, and I cringe to find out what a beer goes for in Europe. Even at a posh hotel in Siem Reap, you would probably be charged two bucks, maybe three tops. But the going rate in town is 75 cents to a buck, with plenty who offer the continual half dollar beer, but some only do this during happy hour. Indeed, beer lovers will not have to wander far to find an ice cold mug for a meager fifty cents. On the average, a can of Angkor, the national brew, usually goes for one dollar. I was amazed when I heard 1st hand from a Norwegian that he paid $12 for 1 beer in his homeland. His words were barely coherent as he slurred his speech over his 12th mug of cheap draft. Cocktails range from one to three dollars in most pubs. Again, you will find that it’s a buyers market.
Transportation is also very inexpensive in Cambodia. Depending on one’s time schedule and budget, the choices for long distance travel are usually air flight or bus. Air Asia has continuous flights from Bangkok to Siem Reap or Phnom Penh for approximately $120 with frequent deals as low as $50, if booked in advance. They also fly from Cambodia to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, if one desires to proceed to destinations like Indonesia with connecting flights. The catch is that the Cambodian side charges an extra $25 airport tax. But, all in all, it can still be an economical mode of travel. I almost always travel overland, either by bus or what they call share taxi, which involves a mini-van with seats for up to 6 or 8 people, plus luggage. A share taxi is usually quicker then a bus, and more comfortable. They most often pick you up at the guest house and drop you off exactly where you want to go when you get to your location. For $8 a person this is a good option from Siem Reap to the Capitol, Phnom Penh. A 6 hour bus ride could probably be reduced to 4 1/2 hours this way. Most of the time air conditioning is adequate but it is wise to shop around for the best company with a good reputation and equipment. Another option is to hire a private car, most often a Toyota Camry, which seats about 4 people. For this you would pay something in the way of $60 for the same distance. You can share the cost with the people you choose. All this can be arranged by the Guest House staff, and they are happy to find the best option for you. There are a number of bus companies to choose from, and the same ride from Siem Reap to the Capitol will be about 5 to 6 dollars, depending whether the Guest House fetches the ticket or you go directly to the bus terminal. Either way it’s a bargain and paying an extra 50 cent commission to the Guest House might be more convenient and one less thing to worry about. All these things take a little time to get use to. Learning the logistics of travel plans comes with experience and having the right information can save you a lot of time, money and stress. Again, I would recommend asking for advice at the Guest House, preferably with someone who speaks good English and with map in hand, so there is always a good communication. Or you can find a local expat to ask questions regarding best way to travel.
When you get to your destination you are faced with another challenge. Numerous moto bike riders and tuk tuks (3 wheeled coaches) will close in on you as you unload your luggage, scrambling for the right to take you to a guest house or hotel of their choosing. Keep in mind that these guys are out to make as much as they can and some are honest and some are not. Watch your belongings carefully. Many a traveler has arrived at his destination dog tired, after a long bus ride where he has dosed off and suddenly been informed that this is the end of the line. Outside the bus is a chaotic situation as the numerous Cambodian moto-dops and tuk tuk drivers impatiently approach the bus riders, hawking their services. “Sir”, you need moto?” “Sir” I take you to Guest House. Where you go?” Most likely they will want to take you to a Guest House where they have a prearranged agreement to receive an extra tip for whoever they bring there. I always have my Guest House pre-planned and I try to take a business card of the hotel or at least know the street name and I have some prior knowledge of how far it is and the expected cost of the transport. As a rule of thumb, if I am travelling alone, and have limited baggage, I will hop on the back of a motor bike, because it is cheaper. I know my way around Phnom Penh and my preferred Guest House is most often within a 10 block radius of the drop off point, so I know to pay no more then 1 dollar. If I am travelling with a friend or 2, we can share a tuk tuk for about 2 dollars or maybe $3, if it’s farther out. They will usually insist on more and some haggling goes on till they realize they are not dealing with a new-comer and they will have to settle for this amount. End of story.

Once again, I will reiterate the importance of being an informed traveler. At least try to give the appearance of someone who knows his way around the block. That way you will not be a victim.
But again, I will warn you to watch your personal belongings. After a long tiring bus ride it is easy to drop your guard and not keep track of all your stuff. Once I was travelling alone with quite a bit of extra luggage. I was in the midst of moving from coastal Sihanoukville to Siem Reap. I had a stopover in Phnom Penh and when the bus wheeled into the terminal I woke suddenly from a nap. I was a bit disoriented and I proceeded to take my bag and guitar out of the bus and shuffle my way to the baggage container outside. There was no security personal anywhere in sight and a pack of taxi guys swarmed around me like a crazy bee hive. I was trying to keep track of all my bags and I was tired and confused. I think I had 8 items in all. Half a dozen tuk tuk drivers kept distracting me with questions about where I was going and did I want to go here or there. I was trying to gather my stuff together and sort out my situation when I suddenly turned to see one of them pick up a big travel bag and start carrying it away. I realized it was mine. I shouted “Hey, whoa, whoa, drop it!” They all began to laugh and mimic me: “Whoa, whoa”, and I had to quickly choose one tuk tuk and load up his vehicle, while remaining vigilant about all my stuff being intact. The driver kept asking me:”Where do you want to go?” and I just kept repeating: “I’ll show you where.” Some of them continued crowding around me to see if I would get careless, but I managed to load everything on the tuk tuk and get out of there. I was lucky. That bag contained a lot of my personal possessions and could easily have been stolen had I not turned around in time to notice. It would have been a heartbreaker. Be aware. It’s always better to travel with company, but if you must travel solo, always stay alert. This kind of situation can happen anywhere, not just Southeast Asia.
So then I arrive at the Guest House. I have my own special room that I have picked out over the course of time and many visits to the capitol. It’s cheap, (6 to 10 dollars for a fan room), bare essentials, centrally located, and somewhat quiet, which is hard to find in the city. Incessant noise has been a nuisance for me, in Asia, and I have been afflicted with sleep deprivation since I 1st began to visit. To find a quiet room is a blessing. Cambodians, in particular, are early sleepers and early risers. It’s not unusual to be awakened at 7:A.M by the sounds of construction, hammering and sawing, and this can be annoying if you’ve been out partying late the night before. So look around for a quiet place that meets your needs. Ear plugs might be a good purchase for quiet sleep.
If you are in the market for a more upscale room, plenty are available. Air con rooms are definitely a bit more. Verily, you can find a dorm room for $2 or a luxury suite at the Cambodiana Hotel for $1000 and almost anything else in between. I am content with my present budget lifestyle. As long as the room is clean, comfortable, and quiet, I’m O.K. with it. On certain occasions, I have been hired to play at a certain venue with my travelling band. A complimentary room is sometimes included in the deal. This might be a $20 room with extra amenities and I welcome this extra bonus.
Whatever the case, my routine is usually to arrive at the lodging late afternoon and take a shower and then rest a bit. Next, I think about eating some dinner, and I have already staked out my delicious low cost meal in advance. If I’m playing a gig that night I’ll prepare for that and go to the club for a sound check. Or, if by chance, I decide to come a day earlier, I’ll see what’s happening around town later in the evening, and maybe take a walk towards the River, where there are numerous bars and restaurants and the air is cool. First thing in the morning I will take a motor taxi to one of the budget breakfast joints I know. The moto ride goes for about 75 cents. This amounts to 3000 riel in Cambodian money. The conversion rate has remained steady for the last 10 years at 4000 Riel per American dollar. U.S dollars are generally accepted as the national currency as well as Cambodian Riel. After a $2 breakfast, I will walk a few blocks to Lucky Lucky Motor Bike Rental. I’ve been doing business with them for years. It’s a fast and easy procedure. I present my passport. I ask them to print me a copy, for I.D. purposes, and they keep my passport while I drive off with a Honda Dream 125 cc motor bike for the price of $3 a day, another great bargain. Gas comes to about $1 per day. For me this is freedom. I get to navigate the city or just drive around and see the sights. I can shop or transport equipment and ride a friend on the back, saving money on tuk tuks and motos. If one can negotiate the hectic traffic of the city, this is the way to go. But if you have limited experience with riding motor bikes, and are not accustomed to the unpredictable stream of cars, motos, pedestrians, bicycles, tuk tuks and sometimes cattle, whizzing by in every direction, then Phnom Penh is not the place to learn how to drive a motor bike. Remember, traffic accidents are commonplace in Cambodia, and almost all fatalities involve motor bikes. Drinking and driving are, unfortunately, the most frequent cause. What I’ve come to notice is that, after 10:P.M., the streets clear up and traffic is at a minimum. In my opinion this is the best time to ride around Phnom Penh. The air is cool and with not much smog or traffic. It hardly seems like a city at all but more like an average suburban town.

Another caution is that motor bike theft is a problem all over Cambodia. It’s always best to lock up the bike at night in any unfamiliar area, and bring it inside the Guest House lobby at night, where it will be guarded by staff and security when you are ready to sleep. A stolen motor bike will require you to pay the security deposit written in your contract for anywhere from $500 to a $1000, before they will return your passport. If all this makes you nervous about renting a motor bike then stick to walking or use the moto dops and tuk tuks. They are still a comparative bargain.
And, while on the subject, if you care to vary your transportation choices, plus maybe chalk up some good karma, try taking a ride in a Cyclo. I do this from time to time because I am aware of the plight of the Cyclo drivers. These are men who offer you transport in their 3 wheeled coaches which they operate manually, peddling like a bicycle. They are among the poorest members of society and, due to the push of modern progress, they may not be around much longer. Ten years ago, the city was full of these foot driven vehicles. But more and more cars, taxis, motos, and tuk tuks are gradually replacing them as a preferred mode of travel. They have almost become obsolete, and there is a possibility they will be eliminated altogether in the near future. For some of these men, it is a desperate fight for survival, as they see fewer and fewer opportunities to compete in a city expanding and on the move. They have a Cyclo organization that is trying to support the rights of these downtrodden members of Cambodian society, but their days are obviously numbered. This will be a sad thing. There is a certain charm to this old custom, and the sight of them peddling down the pavement is a sweet reminder of a unique time when things were slower and life was simpler. So I sometimes flag down one of these guys for a ride, instead of a moto taxi, just to give him a little piece of the action, and I try not to make him peddle too far in the hot sun. It’s just a small way I contribute to preserve another special reminder of the fading times of vintage Phnom Penh. And they are grateful for any extra small cash they can accrue. It all adds up to appreciating the nostalgia of a wonderful place and time that will surely fade away, only to become a distant memory.
I remember, as a young boy, age 5, growing up, just outside of Boston, Massachusettes, the sight of the wooden cart, being pushed along the cobble stone streets of Chelsea. The man rang an old fashioned bell and shouted: “Crabs, Crabs”! My Grandmother would give me a paltry sum of money to go fetch these fresh salt water crabs that were probably picked up that morning by the same vendor. It was a wondrous time to be alive, and though we were poor, it was a special treat that made us feel prosperous and happy. The cobble stone streets are long gone and the hand drawn carts have given way to the digital computer age and generic 7-11 fast food markets. These golden moments have been preserved only in vintage post cards and movies about the past.

Progress will continue in Cambodia also, and many of the charming everyday sights will be rendered obsolete as the new era charges forth. How long will the roadside barbers last? The oxcarts meandering down the road will soon be a thing of the past. There’s a guy walking around town with a contraption on his back to sharpen knives and scissors. What will become of him? And how about the gas sold in Johnny Walker bottles 0n the side of the road? Everything is becoming Sokimex and Caltex.
When I first came to Cambodia in 2002 there were no ATM’s in the Capitol, no Kentucky Fried Chicken franchises, no Starbuck clones. It’s all going commercial and rapidly losing its Soul. Just like America.

I remember driving cross-country 20 years ago, from California to Boston. Each time I drove off the interstate highway, to get gas or food or rest, I came across the same sights: a greasy truck stop restaurant and Holiday Inn. As I drove down the local boulevard, it didn’t matter which town; they were nearly all the same, I came across: Taco Bell, 7-11, Bank of America, Walgreens, MacDonalds, Jack in the Box, Citibank, Starbucks, Target, Safeway, Wells Fargo, and let’s not forget Walmart, the largest company in the world and the biggest in all history. The Walmart empire has probably reached it’s goal of building a store within a 5 mile radius in every town in America. And let’s also not forget their motto: “Always Lower Prices”. But why? Could it be the extremely cheap labor they have extracted from Asian countries such as China and India and possibly Cambodia? But sweat shop labor and loss of American jobs are subjects which I will not delve into now.

My point is that I could only lament the loss of any genuine American culture when I made my cross-country road trip 20 years back. Where had America gone? All the Mom & Pop stores and local artisans that were so familiar when I was a boy seemed to have vanished. The shoe-maker, (we referred to him as the “cobbler”) the sandwich shop (delicatessin), the sign painter, and the home made ice cream store were all absent. One by one they had been run out of town by the encroachment of corporate franchises. Isn’t this why I left America? Isn’t this why I wound up in, of all places, Cambodia? Is this also the fate that awaits this beloved land of wonder? Sadly, I believe it is.
So, for now, I will continue to appreciate these small precious moments in Cambodia, while they last. I will try to remember not to complain, even when I’m woken at 7:A.M. by the rooster crowing and the hammers and drills. I’ll be patient about having my motor-bike or computer fixed on schedule. I will remember that I am on “Cambodian time”, which means “when it happens”. Whenever I smell the pungent odor of their favorite foods like prahok, (fish paste); “They eat that stuff!”, or durien fruit, (P-U !) I will try not to hold my nose. I will not scream in the middle of the night because the neighbors’ mongrel dog barks at nothing. I will find it amusing every time a banana vender or tuk tuk driver tries to jip me of an extra 1000 riel (25cents). I will joke with the traffic cop who tries to shake me down for $1.00 to get extra whisky money on the week-end. I can always just drive away and he will not follow. (Try that in America-(“Down on the ground punk! Hands on your head! You have the right to remain silent!”) Never try to outrun a cop in America! I will not get irritated by the endless stream of beggars, street children, and peddlers who hawk at my heels when I am out and about town. I will remind myself of these small things and try not to listen to negative stories and complaints about Cambodia coming from other expats. I will realize how lucky I am to be here and to be soaking in this strange and sometimes bizarre way of life, which will, undoubtedly, not be around much longer. And, of course, I will remember those smiles.

When I feel troubled and perplexed, at the end of the day, and I ask myself:”Why do I stay here in Cambodia?”, I will lay in my bed at night and picture, in my mind, as I drift off to sleep, the sight of those beautiful smiles.

Tom LaCroix / AKA Tommy Nick
2012